FAQs

Conveniently located at 83 View Road, Mt Eden, Auckland since 1982.

Click the link for our location

https://paulmoney.co.nz/contact-us/ 

Yes, we offer a consult with an on site visit for a small fee which is transferable to any equipment purchased from our quote. We have also partnered with an Independent installer; Adriaan Koberzig from Balanced Audio who offers a full install service.

We have free shipping within New Zealand with the exception of on Sale items. Feel free to enquire with regards to freight of on Sale items.

1. Make sure the Turntable is perfectly level on both “X” & “Y” planes (our Project turntables come levelled from the factory.)
2. Nothing cleans the record like the stylus, so maintain the stylus properly. We have some specially selected carbon fibre brushes for the job.
3. Again use a proper carbon fibre brush for the records surface as this removes airborne contaminants.
4. If records are really dirty, then a good wash in a proper record cleaning machine such as a Spin-clean or ProJect VC-E.
5. Remember stylus life is approx 1400 hours. Lets face it, who can remember how many hours your stylus has done. A badly worn stylus can end up resembling the original cutting device that made the master record. A badly worn stylus can potentially damage your valuable Vinyl permanently.

Below is a video for setting up a Project Debut Carbon turntable. This method can be used to setup any of Projects turntables, from entry to flagship

1. Avoid the use of a multi board* for connecting multiple electronics into one mains outlet. These have numerous links and connections internally and basically they sound woeful. * an Isotek Polaris mains board or similar are exceptions.
2. Again cleaning all RCA & speaker connections by pulling in and out numerous times (remember, always switch mains power off before undertaking this) annually.
3. Leave all electronics powered up, or at least on standby. Not only does this make your Hi-Fi sound better due to being at operating temperature, but also improves reliability hugely. Electronics like to be at a good operating temperature, going from stone cold to very warm daily fatigues components and puts a strain on all the tiny internal soldered joints.
4. Old amplifiers often get “Scratchy” volume controls. These are often easy and cost effective to fix with a service.
5. Keep amplifiers and particular Home theatre receivers well ventilated. Again doing this lessens breakdowns and prolongs its life .
6. Avoid stacking electronics directly on top of each other as the transformers radiate electromagnetic energy this disrupts delicate signals in other more sensitive products .
7. If you have bare wire speaker connections, either “Tin” the copper, or use banana plug terminals. One stray wire can potentially short out your amplifier.  We can offer to do the soldering for you. Remember bringing your Hi-Fi back up to sounding great doesn’t necessarily mean spending a fortune, you can do most of these tip’s yourself. Getting your basics in order is the key.

1. Make sure speakers are rigid, with all spikes and tighten locknuts are in place
2. If on carpet with wood flooring screw in some Philips head or square drive screws down to just below carpet level (No this will not damage the pile, and can be removed later leaving no indication they were ever there). Place the speaker with spike on bottom onto the screw. This will tighten bass performance; vastly improve midrange and treble detail.
3. Use quality metal spiked stands, wood tends to be poor in terms of sound quality. Note there are exceptions such as Sonus Faber that purposely use wooden stands as part of the design makeup.
4. Tighten ALL drivers, as most speaker drivers are screwed into wood not ‘T” nuts as they they loosen over time.
5. If you have Banana plug connections, turn amplifier/ receiver power off. Pull all speaker connections in and out ½ a dozen times, as they will renew their contacts.
6. Always use speaker cables that are the same length. Never join cables, as this has the potential to short

Speaker Placement – Usually not a lot of thought goes into where the speakers are placed and once plonked down, they very rarely get moved. Speaker placement is critical and needs to be addressed to get the most out of your system. To understand the basics of speaker placement it’s important to remember that the higher frequencies travel in a straight line, much like a flashlight beam whereas the lower the frequency, the less directional the sound until you get to the point where the sound is omni directional (the point at which the wavelength is longer than the distance between your ears – usually around 120 Hz). With these points in mind, it becomes obvious that the tweeters in the speakers should be at ear height or at least angled towards your ears to form an equilateral triangle, this will ensure that the sound stage is reasonably stable.

The distance of the speakers from the wall will determine the quality of bass, as the lower frequencies are omni directional, they will “creep” around the box and tend to cancel themselves out to some degree as the speaker box moves further away from the wall, this will “tighten” the bass although diminish it’s impact. As the speaker box gets closer to the wall, the bass will reflect off the wall and be re enforced, this tends to give a stronger bass albeit “sloppier” or less controlled. The secret is to move the box in and out from the wall until the best compromise is achieved. With a sub / satellite system the distance from the wall is no longer a major issue as most of the frequencies concerned are handled by the subwoofer. I may come back to this subject in more detail at a later date but all this thinking is giving me a headache so I’m going home for a bourbon and coke